MERIDA

PARIS OF THE WEST - (THE WHITE CITY) 

T'ho (Merida) was settled in 1842, by Fransicisco de Montejo (the younger), which his father was unable to do. As Merida grew into a succesful city, the wealthy began to fear inteference from outside forces, such as Mexico City. The hacienda owners armed their Mayan servants to protect them, and of course, it backfired. In 1847, the “war of the castes” broke out, and lasted until 1853 when the Mayans took control of the entire peninsula with exception of Merida and Campeche. They remained in control until 1901.

 

This modern Madonna and child statue is a copy of another by Lenoir, which stands in the Jardin du Luxembourg in Paris, France.  In behind is the Iglesia de Jesus, or Iglesia El Tercer Orden.  It is one of the few Jesuit structures still standing in Merida, and was built in 1618.

Driving into the city through the outskirts, you’ll notice men working horses with carts. As you get closer to the centro, the traffic gets thick and crazy with double-wide bikes, motorcycles, buses, trucks that stop in your lane with no notice to unload, horse carraiges for rides, and toxic diesel fumes. As the streets are narrow, and the buildings tall, beeping horns are amplified. Two lanes are best described as three weaving in and out, and never straight.

Revolutionary Passage, Merida

If staying in close proximatey to the city zocolo and centro area, you will enjoy the evenings for festivities in the parks, music, dancing in the streets, sitting on narrow balconies of coffee shops, or down in the alley where Peon Contreras has good location for drinks and guacamole.

 

Daytime can be spent exploring historical churches, galleries, museums and of course, artesan shops, juice-stands, bakerias and grocerias. Day trips outside of the city include Dzibilchaltun, Uxmal, Mayapan and the Puuc Route, to see Mayan ruins, Celestun to see Flamingos, and Progresso to swim in the Gulf, and visit a town catering to Mexican tourists. There is a Convent route, Hacienda route, and Yaxcopil, to visit a henecken plantation museum.

We saw these beautiful children getting ready waiting for a bus, so asked if it would be okay if we took their picture.  They must think us Gringo's are a strange lot, but they were too gorgeous to pass up!

Of course, if we were going to take a picture of the girls, we had to get the boys too...we were just about to walk away when they all started jeering!

 

There are many churches in Merida.  This cathedral was dedicated to San Idelfonso, and replaced a thatched building in 1551.  In 1585, architect Juan de Aguero designed the facade of the building, with the two towers and the Hapsburg coat of arms, and an arch over the front entrance.  The Hapsburg coat of arms was later replaced with a Mexican sheild.

I haven't been able to find out what the story is behind this building, but considering the architecture, I assume it was either a church or one of the Jesuit schools.  I guess now Coca Cola owns it...

The Governors Palace was built in 1892 and now houses the State of Yucatan's executive government offices.  The armed guards are on duty night and day, but don't normally look this serious! 

The Palace itself is beautifully constructed, with a central courtyard, and typical Spanish arches.  The murals on display here are not typical murals, as they are portable, as opposed to being painted directly onto the walls.   

"Hecho de Maiz" or "Made of Corn"

"Venta de Indios" or "Sale of Indians."

Fernando Castro Pacheco was born on January 26, 1918 in Merida, and is a painter, illustrater, engraver, print maker and teacher.  He has illustrated children's books and delved into sculpture, but is known for painting murals of Mexican life and history.

I don't have the title of this painting, but believe it was "Famine."  If anything, the subjects are certainly suffering due to starvation.

"Guerra de Castas" or "War of the Castes"

The War of the Castes was the result of greedy Meridan landowners, and intelligent Mayan warriors.  Merida had become a very wealthy city, and as Mexico had gained independance from Spain, the landowners began to worry about the central Mexican government wanting their share of the prosperity.  The Hacienda owners armed their Mayan soldiers, who were victims of oppression by the very people who need their protection.  The plan backfired, as the Mayans rebelled, and in 1847 the War of the Castes errupted.  Merida and Campeche were successful in barricading themselves against the rebel forces, but the rest of Yucatan Peninsula fell under Mayan rule once again.  It is said that anyone of fair skin who ventured out of these cities rarely returned.  Eventually, the landowners agreed to take orders from Mexico City in return for protection from the State, and in 1901 the War of Castes finally ended.  Many Mayans retreated into the jungle, where the majority of them continue living in Na huts and speaking Yucatec Maya instead of Spanish.  In tourist areas, this is starting to change, but there are still many Yucatec Maya who do not speak Spanish or English.

"Execution of Jacinto Canek"

On November 19, 1761 there was a Mayan uprising in Cisteil, and Jacinto Canek, as leader of the rebellion, was caught and condemned to death, along with several of his followers.  The execution took place on September 14, 1761 at 8AM, in front of Montejo's home.  The Governor was present, as witness to Caneks brutal execution, which was being quartered with hot pokers.  His remains were then burned.

"Triumph of the Republic"

Benito Juarez (top left) was a Zapotec Indian lawyer from Oaxaca.  After many struggles with the Church, Juarez was elected president in 1861, but almost immediately forced to flee due to the take over by the Napoleon III and the Emperor Maximillian.  On May 15, 1867 Queretaro fell to the Liberal Army, and Maximillian was found guilty of 13 charges, including the Black Flag decree.  Despite pleas to spare Maximillians life, which came from Europe, USA, the Vatican and Italy, Juarez insisted that Maximilian would be executed.  This took place on June 19, 1867 on the Hill of Bells in Queretero.  He was 35 years old.  Juarez resumed the presidency until his death on July 18, 1872.

I don't remember the name of this mural, but it always makes me think of Friar Diego De Landa, which is grim expression and judgemental finger.  

Admission is free, and as the Governers Palace is located in the center of Merida, it's a perfect place to escape the heat for half an hour.  There are 31 murals in total, the first 26 of which were painted in 1973, with the latter 5 being completed in 1975.  

I wonder if my nation of Canada will ever commission an artist to create public illustrations of the atrocities that were done to our Indigenous peoples.  Though a Residential School museum was opened in Manitoba last year, Canadians tend to shy away from facing our dark past.  

I do not speak Spanish, and the translation I got from the internet made no sense.  If anyone can translate this for me, I'd appreciate an email!!  This photograph was taken at a political concert in Merida.  Leanne and I found this to be a most interesting event, as there were pop stars at the Zocalo, and everyone was out from babies to the elderly.  There were lots of political posters, people chanting, but for the most part, everyone was in good cheer. 

Standing in the midst of the crowd, an older American fellow caught our eye, and just started laughing.  He said "Can you imagine if America had these kinds of parties to remind youth that it's important to vote?  I've never seen anything like this!"  It's not much different in Canada.  We would not have walked into this crowd of people had it not been a music concert with pop stars and kids.  Despite many posters and chants, the crowd was peaceful, and having fun.  Tourists are always warned to stay away from political events, but this was more like a party than a protest.

Still, once the policia began to infiltrate the crowd, we escaped to a balcony-coffee shop that overlooked the square, and watched from there.  Nothing happened, and at the end of the night, everyone was walking down the roads arm in arm, singing away.

In May 2007, Ivonne Aracelly Ortega Pacheco (born November 27, 1972) was elected as Governor of Yucatan.  She is affiliated with the PRI, and is Yucatan's first elected female Governor, though second to serve after Dulce Maria Sauri Riancho, who served as interim governor from 1991 - 1994.  Pacheco is the fifth woman to serve as governor of a Mexican state, and was inaugurated on August 1, 2007.  She will serve as Governor until 2012.  (I have no idea whether or not she is related to the artist Fernando Castro Pacheco, who painted the murals for the Governors Palace.)