DRIVING IN YUCATAN

FIRES ARE BURNING

The Yucatan Peninsula is considered the safest place to explore in Mexico, and its many sites are much easier to access if you have your own vehicle.  The coastal highway is busy, the local roads are fascinating and free (however, a little more risky due to bus drivers who pass on corners), and though the toll highway is expensive, it's fast and safe enough to drive in the dark.

The only warning I have for driving in Yucatan is that apparently fires are frequent at certain times of year.  In May 2006, we sailed around a corner and were suddenly enveloped by thick smoke.  It seemed the fire crews had sprayed water on either side of the road, and the pavement sucked it into the middle of the road, as if it were a vacuum.

Our pictures don't do our story justice, as at the time, I had my head out the window trying to see the front of the car, in relation to the edge of the road, while Leanne was acting as another pair of eyes on her side of the car.  By the time we had coughed our way through the smoke at a total of 5 km's an hour, we were driving through burning jungle.  The fire crews had resorted to only pouring water on one side of the road, but the other side was still on fire.  At least this meant better visibility.  Even-so, driving beneath burning boughs, and avoiding debris on a flaming highway is hardly my idea of fun.  It seemed everytime we came upon a turn-around, it was on fire.  Eventually, we'd driven so far we decided we may as well keep going. 

At the Piste Toll, the military had a check-point set up, but the young man laughed at us when we stopped, waving us to keep going.  Everything was burning, but we figured if they weren't asking us to stop, the highway to Merida must be clear.

Driving into Merida, I made a mistake and veered off to the left, landing us in a somewhat sketchy part of town.  It had been ten years since I'd been there, and I knew that though the calle numbers were right, we were in the wrong area of town.  Neither Leanne or I speak Spanish, so asking for directions was a game of charades, but eventually Leanne noticed a "Centro" sign, and we were so grateful to be back on Calle 65.

 Driving in Merida is best described as an accident waiting to happen, especially if not used to grid and very aggressive drivers.  The truck that is stopped on the right side of the road was moving previously to this picture being taken.  We found ourselves locked behind it, while everyone went rushing by, beeping frantically.  After a bit of experience driving in Merida, I've learned to put on the blinker and just go for it.  Though these double lane streets are narrow, they tend to accomodate three lanes weaving in and out.  I got used to having my foot on the break and gas pedal almost simultaneously.

Though locals often beep their horns, it's more like a signal than anything close to road rage.  We've always found Mexicans to be extremely considerate drivers.  Often on the outer-city roads, if you catch up to a local, they'll pull over to let you by.

Once you're used to the Calle system, it's very easy to find your way around Merida.  Just keep a decent map available so you can keep track of single lane directions, and watch out for traffic directors.

Of all signs to pay attention to, this one is as important as a stop sign.  Topes are huge yellow painted road mounds meant to slow you down, and are often placed before and after villages, or near areas where there are lots of pedestrians.  The only problem with the local roads, is that they aren't always sign-posted, nor is the bright yellow paint maintained.  If you happen to discover one by surprise, you're likely to get a bit of air time...

 This is a round-about on the Paseo Montejo, which leads out of Merida towards Progresso, through the wealthiest district of the city.  This neo-Mayan style monument was designed by Romulo Rozo in 1956, and is called "Monument to the Fatherland."  The round-abouts are stressful for someone like me, because we don't have these where I live.

The drive to Progresso is likely the best stretch of road on the entire peninsula.  Not only is it beautiful and clean, it's also wide and straight.

One note about Progresso - we went there for an interesting meal, after visiting Dzibilchaltun.  We had driven the coast and inland highway the year before, and this year had explored even more roads - but for some reason, could not figure out how to get out of Progresso!  Driving into the little sea-side beach town was very easy, as the stretch from Merida to Progresso is straight forward - but Progresso is a Mexican beach town, and is not popular with foreign tourists (other than cruise ships, where the majority of visitors board buses.)  We think this may be why there were no road signs instructing us as to where the exit was.  We drove back and forth for a while, on the main aviendo, looking for a sign...and eventually stopped and asked.  The man said "Big Tanka, turn right."

We thanked him, and finally came through an intersection and saw what we thought must be the "big tanka" - and thankfully, his instructions were clear!  We turned right, and found the highway back to Merida.  Moral of the story:  Towns that are used to foreign tourists have ample instructive signs - but small Mexican towns do not, especially if they aren't expecting a lot of foreign visitors who are driving themselves around.  This is what the "Big Tanka" looked like - though this photo was taken in Izamal.  It's the town water-tank....