TULUM

CITY OF DAWN

Though the architecture of Tulum is not overly spectacular, it's a beautiful place to visit because it is the only city with an ocean view.  This walled city is quite small, so it doesn't take long to visit.  There are three stone walls, the fourth of which is the coast.  The neatest part about coming to Tulum is you get to enter the city through one of the original gates, and leave by a different exit.

more coming soon....



KINBE HOTEL

IN THE PARTY ZONE

The Kinbe hotel is funky hotel in the middle of the heat, - meaning it can be quite noisy at night, but is close to everything you need.  I'd stay here again for a couple of nights - but not if I was looking for rest and relaxation.  (In that case, don't even go to Playa del Carmen.) 

We were required to hand in our keys when we went out, and some people do not like this - but considering most people drink all day (in the heat), we concluded there was likely a good reason why they wanted our keys.  Some people think leaving your key behind means staff will steal your belongings, but we never had a problem - besides, the house cleaners all have keys, and I'm sure the hotel has extra copies too.

The rooms are fairly small, but we don't hang around in our room anyway.  The lobby had a nice place to relax in the evening with a drink, and the only thing I think the Kinbe misses is that the beautiful pathway on the right side of the hotel lacks outdoor seating, so guests cannot enjoy the view.  It's fairly narrow, so there isn't an awful lot of room for seating - something perhaps the architects overlooked when the last renovation was done.

I'd recommend requesting a room on the bottom level.  It's cooler, and the narrow staircase to the upper level doesn't look like it would be much fun to climb with luggage.

We almost used the pool, but ended up going down to the beach.  It looked very clean, but was quite cold.  The rooms on this side have a much larger outdoor space, but it isn't nearly as pretty as the other side...

I loved this shower!!  Look at the showerhead :)  By far, this is the nicest bathroom I've ever had in Mexico.  It was especially nice that the shower curtain closed off the shower so the toilet seat etc doesn't get wet.  The bathroom was very funky and artistic, with tile-work around the mirrors.  

If I return to Playa Del Carmen, I would certainly return to the Kinbe hotel.  The staff were very friendly and personable, but what I loved the most was their central location.  Walk up the street and the best shops and restaurants are at your finger tips.  It's also very close to the beach, as it's on the beach-side of Aviendo Five.  Just remember, the rooms are quite small - but if you're not one for sitting in your room, or finding everything you need in your hotel (but prefer to explore your surroundings) then the Kinbe is a good choice.

 

DISTRACTIONS

HUH?

Canadians and Americans travel to Mexico every day - thousands of them.  For this reason, you can tell people "I'm going to Mexico" - and they'll shrug and say, "oh yeah."  If you say, "yeah, we're renting a car, and driving away from Little America" - they'll look at you in shock, shake your hand and say "well, it's been nice to know ya."  I've never gotten sick in Mexico, but when we went into a Meridan groceria, I saw something that made my stomache turn, and thought "wow, I'm surprised I'm alive after all those Caesar Salads and Huevos Ranchero's."

Yes!  Those are eggs on a shelf - an unrefrigerated shelf!  For the record, whenever we ordered Caesar Salad, the waiter would prepare it in front of us, with the raw egg and all....we never got sick.  Despite what we are used to in North America, I have been assured that eggs don't need to be refrigerated, so long as they haven't ever been in a fridge!  Shocked us for sure...

I think I should mention something many may not know:  Caesar Salad was invented in Mexico!

Here was yet another scene where Leanne and I thought:  "Huh?"  I mean, for one - you'd never be allowed to strap anything on your car this way, in Canada - and avoid getting pulled over for safety implications...but we didn't even notice that until we got home and looked at the picture again.  We were just wondering what the heck this guy had on top of his car!  Google is amazing:)  It turned out to be a modern water tank, made by "rotoplas."  I've since learned these are used all over Latin America.  We then observed we had pictures of them in street photographs - but hadn't noticed!

Aside from many things that catch the eye in a foreign country, we were also shocked at the lack of safety regulations in Mexico.  Sometimes I wonder why we need so many regulations in Canada, but some things lack common sense...

Leanne took this incredible photograph in Izamal.  She snapped it quickly, as they went speeding by.

I'm sure there are many other things we've seen along the way, but didn't have the chance to photograph.  Either way - when you explore Yucatan, be on the look-out for strange details and parts of daily-life that may be very different from anything you've seen before :)

 

PLAYA DEL CARMEN

PLAYAMERICARMEN

Glitz, music, dancing and a warm ocean breeze...it's all an illusion.  This is fun town - the place where being close to the centro means you'll get no sleep, and if you're on the outskirts, you're far away from the delicious plates of food served up in some of Playa's better restaurants.  I have a love/hate relationship with Playa Del Carmen, and I hope in future that changes - but I'm unsure that it will.

In 1996, Playa had Senor Frogs, but most of the corporations were an hour north in the sky-scraped city called Cancun.  We weren't in Mexico for the Hard Rock Cafe, or Senor Frogs, though we did visit the latter - and the food was okay, drinks weak, and seats uncomfortable.  Okay - maybe I just have something against corporations and franchises.

Then again, maybe not.  100% Natural is a franchise, but the food here was fabulous.  The service was also friendly and efficient, and the fruit fountain was pretty beautiful.  We stopped here for breakfast a few times, because they had amazing bread, fruit salad, yogurt, granola and all the huevos ranchero's style meals one could want in the morning.  We found the prices very decent, and the one time we stopped for a nightcap, our drinks were the size of fish bowls.

There are some beautiful shops in Playa Del Carmen, but buyer beware - you'll pay high prices here.  If you are heading inland, and know you're coming back - check the shops before you leave, so you can shop around.  We found prices were extremely high in Playa, and very reasonable in Merida.

This sign is confusing!  But they actually mean if you drink one, you've paid for two...for the most part, it seemed happy hour covers most of the day in Playa.  In 2007, the currency exchange meant that two drinks cost $5.55 CAD, and 2 beers cost $4.44 CAD...pretty darn cheap if you ask me!!  The only thing about this, is that if two people order a drink each, they will be charged full price each - so to take advantage of this deal, you need to be prepared to drink 2 each....that's not hard!!

Playa is beautiful, busy, fun, exciting and expensive - but the part I object to most is the fact that Starbucks has now taken over the small local coffee shops that used to be busy on Aviendo Five.  In 2007, Burger King was also located on Aviendo Five, and it's unfortunate to see the mum and pop operations that were there in 1996, disappear.  Even between 2006 and 2007, much had changed on the main strip.  It's demoralizing to think tourists travel to Mexico for the comforts of home - and think nothing of avoiding small businesses if they can order that name-brand taste of that Starbucks Frappaccino they are accustomed to.  I say "try something new!"  Mexico happens to have some excellent coffee - and the best pizza I ever tasted was at the Cafeteria El Meson at Parque Hidalgo in Merida.  Unless tourists begin voting with conscious feet, there will be little reason to even visit the Mayan Riviera.

   

   

 

COBA

WATERS STIRRED BY THE WIND

Coba is located on the shores of a series of lakes, and covers about 50 km square.  It was occupied from the Late Pre-Classic period (100-250 AD) and reached its peak during the 7th - 11th centuries.  At her peak, Coba was home to around 50 thousand people. 

Coba dominated trade routes between the Caribbean Coast, and the cities of northern Yucatan, including Chichen Itza.  Nohuch Mul is the tallest pyramid in the Yucatan, but is one of the least interesting with regards to architecture.  The main draw for most visitors is that Coba is located in the jungle, and is one of the last sites in the land of the Maya where you can still climb a pyramid.  The above photograph was taken from the top of Nohuch Mul (which means "Big Mound.")

Australian archaeologist Teobert Maler was the first to explore Coba, arriving there alone in 1891.  John Lloyd Stephens was told about Coba when he first explored the Yucatan, but as it was so deep in the jungle, he figured it would be extremely difficult to visit - and he was probably right.  Even in 1996, Coba was void of tourists during peak season, as the road to get there was still less traveled by tourists.  Today, there's tours that arrive daily, though the majority of people still head straight for Nohuch Mul, then leave without exploring the rest of the loop that leads out to the Stelae Groups.

This temple is at the top of Nuhuch Mul, and is quite small inside - though it does have the vaulted (or false) arch ceiling.  It's a strange feeling, standing inside of such an old room, not knowing exactly what the walls would say, if they could speak.

There is a handy rope - I think it's most useful when descending, rather than ascending - but it should be mentioned that the stones get very slippery with dust, and sturdy shoes are a must.  I was very nervous on my last climb, because I'm aware that people have died falling from these structures - so whatever you do, don't look down, lose your balance, or go too fast in the heat.  Some people got dizzy, and stood scared at the top, which is not exactly the time you want to realize that you're afraid of heights.

This is a chultun.  I'm not sure where Mel Gibson got the notion  that a woman and child could climb into one of these and live, but maybe I'm unaware that there's a massive chultune somewhere in Mayab!

This pyramid is interesting, as it has the rounded walls that are similar to the Magicians temple at Uxmal.  There are very few structures that have rounded walls - and I only wish I knew more about whether or not these sites are linked.

In 1926, the Carnegie Institue funded the first two expeditions led by J Eric S Thompson and Harry Pollock.  After their expedition was complete in 1930, nothing happened at Coba until in 1973, the Mexican Government began to finance excavations.

Similar to the hoop at Uxmal, the hole in this hoop is much larger than the ones in the Great Court of Chichen Itza.  This court is also very small and is not enclosed, like the Great Court.  The slanted walls in this court would have made the game easier to play, as one could bounce the ball off the wall and through the hoop.  At Chichen Itza, the hoop is so high, and the walls so straight - it would have been difficult get the ball through the tiny hole. 

When we left the pyramids, we ended up out in the Stelea group for about an hour, and didn't see a soul.  It was amazing, considering the rest of the site was packed - but it seems most people come to conquer Coba, not explore it, or learn about it.  It is very hot and sticky in the jungle, but it's possible to pay for bike-taxi's at the trail entrance, instead of walking around in the heat like we did.

There are several Stelae's out in this part of Coba - and it's amazing to contemplate the fact that archaeologists believe there are about 6500 structures here, most of which have never been excavated.

I have no idea why this tunnel is here.  It goes from one end to the other, but doesn't lead anywhere.  It's so pretty here, and it was really nice being able to explore without the crowds.

When one considers how overgrown most of Coba is to this day, it's easy to understand why Stephens didn't come here in the 1800's.  He was told about the ruins at Chemax, but never actually met anyone who'd been to the ruins. 

Is it a monkey??  It doesn't really look like a skull, considering the eyes - and that little nose and big mouth make me think it must be a monkey...but who knows.  I've found it difficult to find accurate information on Coba.

This is at the entrance of Coba.  We never went for a bike-ride, but by the end of our visit, we were dying for someone to pick us up!  Unfortunately for us, because we were out in the Stelae group, nobody came looking for tourists.  As we were leaving, we met two Canadians from Edmonton, who had rented bikes - but other than them, we were alone. 

It is best if you bring your own picinic, because the food that was being served here in 2007 was far from edible.  There was a greasy spoon serving hotdogs and fries, but nothing light or healthy, or Mexican.

 

 

CHIGGERS

THE INVISIBLE SAND FLY

There is a horrible little sand-fly that lives in Yucatan, and I'm still unsure as to what provokes an attack.  When I visited Yucatan in 1996, I was attacked in Playa del Carmen.  For days, I had these little pin-prick bites all over my legs, and didn't think much of them.  They didn't itch, but it was February, and the heat hadn't hit yet. 

Once we got to Uxmal, a few days later, all of those little pin-pricks swelled up into massive welts, some measuring 3 inches long, by 2 inches wide.  They all connected, and my legs were so itchy, I wanted to peel my skin off!

See the welts?  My right knee is a continent of sand-fly welts, as is the side of my left foot.  My legs were covered.  I suffered these sand-fly bites in 1996 and again in 2007, but somehow missed them in 2006.  We went to all the same places, so I'm unsure as to why I missed out on this wonderful novelty in 2006...

In 1996, I bought medicine for mosquito bites, but it didn't work.  Paula at Posada Toledo gave me vapo rub, but that wasn't much better.  When we got out to Dzibilchaltun, a tour guide named Jose told me to use sliced limes coated in salt.  Now that did the trick!!

Best way to keep these jerks from making your life miserable is to wear socks, shoes and pants - regardless of the heat.  I know the next time I visit Yucatan, I'll be keeping myself covered.  It's worth the heat, to avoid these miserable welts...by far, it caused me more discomfort than having 8 stitches across my knee (even though my stitches ripped.)

Hope you manage to steer clear their nasty stingers... 

GRAND CENOTE

UM....MAYBE NOT!

Leanne was three months pregnant, and I had 8 stitches across my knee, so we decided that snorkelling in fresh water, where swallows were pooping, wasn't likely a good idea.  I'm a bit claustorphobic, but would have tagged along with Leanne, because she's an avid swimmer - but she wasn't keen due to being pregnant.

We paid $8 to get in, which would have been an excellent price for spending the day exploring the caves, but turned out to be the price we paid for a few colorful photographs! 

It looks so beautiful, and there were quite a few people swimming...but it's still hard to know whether or not there are parasites in the water, considering the birds and bats that were flying swooping back and forth.  I'm not sure I will ever snorkel here.

It's truly beautiful here...but still made me feel uneasy. 

ZAMAS

THE ARACHNOPHOBE

Izamal was so humid in April, that when we left, all we could think about was iced coffee.  We'd spent the morning wandering around the town, as neither of us really wanted to leave - but eventually figured we'd best hit the road.  When we were emptied out onto the highway, Leanne looked at me and said "you know, they have those really good iced coffees at Chichen Itza..."

The expression of utter shock on the tour guides faces when we told them we weren't there to see Chichen Itza, but had merely stopped for coffee still amuses me.  One man followed us as we walked to the gate, "but you can't come all the way here, and not go inside!"  We explained to him that we'd been twice before, and he started to laugh.  "Okay, I see now!"  I gotta say, we're pretty spoiled to be able to say we've stopped for coffee at Chichen Itza...

We enjoyed the old highway from Piste to Tulum, but I think I will always have issues navigating my way through Valladolid.  (That said, next trip I'd like to stay there.)  From Chemax to Tulum, I was suprised how the road had changed.  In 1996, we'd been stopped at a military check point, and one man had held a machine gun within inches of my mothers head, while the other man searched the trunk.  In 2007, the turn-off to Coba was being constructed into a massive round-about, which was our first clue that Coba was going to be full of tourists.

Neither of us are into lying on beaches, but that doesn't mean we don't love being at the beach!  It was such a relief to be at the beach, but sad to know our little adventure was drawing to a close.  Zamas was beautiful, and we were impressed by our suite.  We had a few different balconies, some with a beach view, and one on the back that overlooked Sain Kaan.  For some reason, from the moment we arrived, I started thinking "this is where I'm going to see my spider."

We decided to head for the grocery store at Tulum, and as we came downstairs, Leanne said "There sure are a lot of ants here."  I hadn't noticed them, and shrugged it off as no big deal, since they were in the kitchen.  I guess I wasn't thinking...

The fridge was not plugged in, but as the door had been closed - it stank.  Though you can't see the ants in this picture, believe me - they had a freeway engineered through this kitchen, heading straight for the beach from the back.

Just like all hotels at the beach, the towels had been folded into swans, and set up to make a heart.  This suite was big enough for 10 people, so we were laughing about having so many beds to choose from.

Our salt-water shower in this heavily tiled bathroom was beautiful.  I must say, I wouldn't want to clean all of that tile!  I was unsure of how it would feel to wash and condition my hair in salt water, but my hair felt so sticky from the humidity, I didn't really care.

Holy Cow!  Who needs a bed this big?  I would hate to be in the middle, considering there's no AC, and the windows, as I was soon to find out - were unscreened (meaning most people use the bug nets, which trap the heat.)  I snapped this picture, then stood by the window to catch the breeze.  As it was getting late, I couldn't see if there were screens in the window, so began putting my hand through the gaps of the blinds.  To my surprise, there were no screens.  I turned around, and this is what I saw running along the edge of the bed:

Thing is - he looks really small in this picture.  We get wolf spiders in Canada, some of which can get quite large - but this spider was by far, at least as large as my hand.  She was around 3.5 inches across, but what disturbed us the most was that she just ran back and forth along the edge of the bed, as if she were guarding something....like, babies?  eeewww!  Leanne said "I'll go get the broom!"  And I replied, "If you try to hit that thing with a broom, it'll jump on your head!"  I stayed in the room with the spider, to keep my eye on it.  I am absolutely terrified of spiders!!  But then Leanne let out a sigh.  "Um, Jennie?  I think you should come and see this..."

And there we had our second unwelcome house-guest!  Scorpions don't really bother me so much, (I've never seen a big one) - I'm mainly just arachnophobic....but Leanne was very concerned with this little scorpion, due to the possibility of Mamma, and also - all of the siblings related to this little guy.  I think we would have been okay, had it not been for the fact that I said "Okay, I think I should maybe pick my luggage up from the floor."  But when I picked it up, a foot long lizard went running!  Looking back on it, it's quite funny - but I think what bothered us most was that we'd paid $40 - $45 a night to stay in beautiful rooms, and this place was charging us $200 a night.  We both feel that the ants were likely the cause of the problem, but we'd been shopping and were storing our food in the trunk of our rental, so it wouldn't attract the ants.  That already felt like a bummer, considering the price we were paying - but to discover a massive spider, a scorpion and a lizard within minutes of the other, we began to wonder what else was there. 

We approached the manager to see if there was another suite we could be moved to, but every room was taken.  He told us he'd have someone come kill the spider, but at this point, we were convinced the ants were the problem - and were likely what attracted the other bugs.  I was terrified of the spider, and Leanne was disturbed by the scorpion factor.  He told us he could not refund us, but we decided to stay and eat at the fabulous restaurant.  We ended up driving to Playa del Carmen that night, with great disappointment.  One thing we did find out though, is that the highway is much nicer to drive in the dark, than during the day.

Upon coming home, we had a bit of a hard time convincing the management that we deserved a refund - but eventually they agreed that no person should be expected to pay $200 a night to stay in a bug-infested suite.  At first, they tried to say we should have expected it - being in the tropics and all.  I then explained that I'd been to Yucatan three times, and had stayed in very inexpensive hotels, and never seen a bug in my room, let alone a spider, scorpion and lizard within a minute of the other.  (Leanne and I both love lizards - but wondered if we'd find a snake next.)   The woman finally agreed to refund us, and I must say that considering how awesome the restaurant is, and the fact that the ants will be taken care of by the time I go back - I may yet give this place another chance.  I do think I'd skip the kitchen-suite though, as I honestly believe the kitchen was likely what attracted the ants and other creatures.

CHICHEN-ITZA

THE MOUTH OF THE WELL OF THE ITZAES

This Late Classic site is thought to have been settled between 550-900 AD, and then again in 1100AD.  It is after the resettlement of 1100AD that archaeologists believe Quetzalcoatl and his followers were exiled from the northern capital of Tula, and invaded Mayan inhabited Chichen Itza.

 

The Temple of Quetzalcoatl (El Castillo) stands nearly 25 meters tall, and was originally constructed before 800AD.  After the Toltec invasion, Toltec "plumbed serpent" motifs were carved onto the stairways and Toltec warriors were added to the frescoes at the top doors.   

 

 Each side of the pyramid has 9 levels, divided by centric staircases which creates 18 on each side.  This represents the 18-20 day months of the Vague year.  The four staircases have 91 stairs, which totals 364.  By adding the top level, there is a step for each day of the year.  Each facade boasts 52 panels, which represent the Calendar-Round.  (The Mayans commemorated 52 years much like we pay attention to 100.)

The north side staircase has a serpent head at the base, and on the Spring and Fall equinox the entire pyramid falls into shadow with the exception of the edge of this particular staircase.  This is said to be Kukulkan descending and ascending the earth.  Inside the pyramid is an inner north-side staircase that leads up to a chamber inside the temple.  When we were there in 1996, this jaguar was there with a chac-muul altar. 

This was taken inside the top temple of the pyramid in 1996.  In 2006 after a woman fell to her death, the pyramid was closed for climbing.  The staircase leading to the inner chamber is also closed.  Many visitors are put-off by this, however it makes sense to think that thousands of people climbing these temples every year would cause substantial structural damage.  If you're keen on climbing a pyramid, head for Coba.  The architecture is nowhere near as interesting as Chichen Itza, but as it is set in the jungle, it's still exciting to visit.

El Caracol is the star observatory.  The Spanish named it the Conch Snail due to a spiral staircase inside.  Archaeologists believe the foundation of the structure was built by the Maya, but that the observatory itself is of Toltec construction.

There are few round structures found in the Mayan world.  Mayapan has a similar structure which may have been a copy of this observatory, but since the sacking of Mayapan, less reconstructive work has been done there than at Chichen Itza.  There was a round structure discovered at Uxmal, but archaeologists are still unclear as to what it was for.  I also know El Ceibal in Guatemala (near Sayaxche) has a round structure.  Most cities have something unique about them, but Chichen Itza has many features that make it a fascinating site to explore.

This structure is called the Nunnery, and thought to be where Mayan priests and priestesses lived, as it's a large "convent-like" structure with many rooms. 

La Iglesia, or "The Church" was named by the Spanish, likely because it is situated next to the Nunnery.  The rectangular construction of this building is Puuc, but the stone mosaic veneer and roof comb is of Chenes making.  The Chenes are famed for their intricate stone-work, as the pieces were all pieced together into incredible motifs of animals and gods, and stay together without the use of mortar.  These buildings are why I always recommend visitors make the effort to come to Chichen Itza, if they aren't going to make it inland to see Uxmal.  I think both sites are important to see, if in the Yucatan - but fewer people ever make it to Uxmal because of it's location in the Puuc Hills.

Unlike La Iglesia, the Nunnery Annexe has Chenes veneer on the lower portion of the building, as well as at the upper portion.  What amazed us was that though Chichen Itza was crawling with tourists and vendors, we only saw one couple when we were out in this area, and we were out here for at least half an hour.  They were from Chile, so we took turns exchanging cameras for photographs.  Chichen Itza is a large site, and the horrendous afternoon sun is exhausting.  We purchased 2 litres of water each, which were partially frozen - and within about ten minutes, the ice and melted and my water was getting warm.  Despite drinking fluids all morning, and then 2 litres while we were here, neither of us required the restrooms.  That's gotta tell you something about the heat, and the importance of staying hydrated. 

The Great Ball Court

If you compare the size of this court to the ones at Uxmal and Coba, you'll be amazed by how different they are.  There are also two smaller courts at Chichen (located next to the Temple of a Thousand Warriors, where there is also a sweat bath.)  Archaeologists theorize that the smaller courts were built for fewer players, but that this court was built for larger teams.  They also suspect that human sacrifice may not have been practiced in smaller ball games, but are certain the losing team from this court was beheaded, due to the frescos on the walls here.  Unlike Uxmal and Coba's courts, which have low slanted walls and lower hoops with larger holes - archaeologists believe that playing the ball game in this court would have been much more difficult.  The building at the end of the court is called the Temple of the Bearded Man, which has a battle-scene carved into the inside walls.

  I cannot imagine what it must have been like to live in a city where the center of town had a platform for displaying the dead.  This is the Tzompantli, built by the Toltecs, for this purpose.

In 1904, Edward Thompson had "Cenote Sagrado" or "Sacred Cenote" dredged.  Eventually, he and another man rigged up outfits to dive into the murkey waters of the cenote, and this was when they discovered gold, jade, obsidian knives - and human skeletons.  In the 1960's, National Geographic and CEDAM further explored the cenote.  It is believed that the human remains belonged to those who were selected as sacrifical victims for rain.

Chichen Itza gets mixed reviews, and many on Trip Advisor say it isn't worth visiting due to the crowds and invasive sales people.  Some enthusiasts are put out by the fact they can no longer climb El Castillo - as if there's some conspiracy by UNESCO to destroy their sense of adventure.  On the other hand, if one were to consider the thousands of visitors climbing on these temples, year by year, it could be argued that by keeping tourists off of these structures, they will last longer.  (Not only that, but I'm sure the tragic death of a visitor had a lot of influence in ending the climbing of El Castillo to the public.)

If you want to visit Chichen Itza, my best advice is to rent a car and drive to Piste the day before your visit.  There is an overpriced hotel right outside of the site, or the Dolores Alba on the old highway coming in from Valladolid.  This gives you the opportunity to see the lazor light show in the evening.  (Save your ticket, as you can use it the next day to get into the park.)  

Wake up early and arrive at the gates for opening.  Not only will you be there hours before the tour buses arrive with hoards of tourists, you'll also have the luxury of exploring Chichen Itza in the cool of the morning, as opposed to the high afternoon sun.  Visit El Castillo, Great Ball Court, Cenote Sagrado, Temple of a Thousand Warriors, sweat baths and El Caracol first - as these tend to be the busiest when the tours arrive.  Save the older parts of Chichen (Nunnery) for later, as fewer tourists head out that way anyway.

 

The other blessing in arriving early is that you will be spared the invasive vendors who will literally harass visitors when it gets busy.  See the little girl?  In the space of 15 minutes, she had tapped me on the arm at least 9 times, trying to sell me the same item.  She was so small and beautiful, but I knew that if I opened my purse, I would be surrounded by all the other children in the vicinity, (and there were lots of them) who were also selling goods.  Some tourists snapped, and started yelling at the kids to get away, and I had to take a lot of deep breaths to stop myself from losing it.  It's awful to scream at a child who doesn't understand what harassment is.  They are sent out there by their parents to make as many sales as they can, but even the most patient of human beings can only stand having their skirt tugged on so many times in a short space of time (by the same child) before they're on the verge of snapping.  The managers of Chichen Itza really need to address this issue, as it is unfair for paying visitors, and if visitors feel harassed, they aren't going to support the vendors inside the park.  It's a lose/lose situation for everyone.

In 1996, the markets (like this one) were set up between El Castillo and El Caracol - two structures that every tourist wants to see.  As the vendors knew everyone would walk by them at some point in the middle of their explorations, there were no children running up to tourists with items to sell.  We bought a lot of stuff at the market in 1996, and it was in the perfect place, because having been out to the Cenote, and seen El Castillo, we were ready to hang out in the shade, drink some water and have a nice little break.  The market in 1996 was full of people.  As you can see, this market in 2006 is empty.

By 2006, the market was right at the entrance of Chichen Itza.  Everyone coming through the gates is eager to get to the site, and by the time they've spent hours exploring in the sun, they are either too exhausted to shop at the market (and want to get back into the gate area for cold drinks), or are frustrated by how many children repeatedly tugged on their skirts while they were trying to enjoy the temples.  We decided that we would go the market that is set up outside of the gates, because we felt that if we shopped at this market, we would send a message to these vendors that having children running around the site with goods is okay.  Again - I truly believe in supporting locals, and would never yell at a child - but this situation is not appropriate for a Unesco site, especially since it was added to the list of World Mystery's in 2007.  Uxmal, Dzibilchaltun, Tulum and Coba do not have vendors in the park - the least they could do here is relocate the market back to where it was in 1996, so everyone can be happy.

Piste is quite a neat little town.  In 2007, when Chichen Itza officialy became a world mystery, it was decided that the municiple government would receive a portion of entry sales for the Unesco site.